Step back in time to 1885, the Chief, Vendegou has just died and leaves his position of Grand Chief to his daughter’s husband. His daughter, Hortense has a very strong personality and is obviously very independent. Queen Hortense is regarded as the leader and holds all the power. As legend has it, between 1885-86, battles were raging over the issue of Queen Hortense ‘being a girl’ ruling. She is forced to flee and hide within the limestone caves with her protectors for a whole year while the tribes sort themselves out.
We visited this exact cave Queen Hortense is said to have lived in for the year. Queen Hortense’s Grotto is one of the largest and most impressive limestone caves I have ever seen. It’s just one little jewel within the Isle of Pines.
The Isle of Pines is very distinctive. The giant Aracaria Conifer trees stand tall and proud. We tendered to the Isle and joined the 2 hour Island Discovery tour at 8.30am in the morning.
It’s a tour we have previously been on and thoroughly enjoyed. The tour takes in the best of the best, showcasing the major landmarks along with an informative commentary from a Local guide.
The catholic faith is very strong in New Caledonia and it’s nice to see the Kanak culture and the catholic faith blend together in a harmonious way. On our tour we visited the Notre Dame de l’Assomption Church which stands in the centre of Vao Village. From there to Maurice Bay where the most spectacular scenery left an everlasting imprint in our minds, a photographers dream. Here the Statue of Saint Maurice stands in a circle of tribal totems. This is actually a commemoration of the first catholic service held on the Island.
As the tour finishes up we are free to roam the Island till 4pm. This is my favourite market place. Kuto Bay Markets have the most unique souvenirs and beautifully made clothing on sale. However, it is very expensive and shocks many passengers who have not been before.
Fancy trying some traditional food? There is market stalls selling French cuisine and barbecued food or enjoy a plate of fresh ‘Bougna’ which is a combination of chicken, fish, sweet potato, taro, yams cooked in a banana leaf in the ground (just like the New Zealand hangi). It’s free but it lacks salt.
Once we got our retail fix, we were back to the ship for a bite to eat and Josh was keen to return to kids club. Dave, Chloe and I returned to the Island as Chloe was itching to get into the water for a bit of snorkelling.
There is an abundance of fish, coral and marine life here. We head straight around to Kanumera Bay. Here there is a sacred rock in the middle of the bay. It is strictly off limits to touch and climb onto this rock as it was once a cemetery. However, the marine life surrounding this giant rock is pristine. Dave and Chloe were in like a flash. I decided the wind factor was a little chilly for me and was happy to sit and watch them frolic.
Before we know it, we are heading back to the ship on one of the last tenders.
It is hard to believe that this tiny little Island on the southernmost part of New Caledonia would hold so much history and intrigue. It’s our favourite place to visit. It is simply breathtaking.
Next port of call is all the way up at the top of Vanuatu. Luganville in Santo. Stay tuned to hear all about this place.